Friday 14th Sallent to Ibon de Respumoso 8kms

Only a short walk today though all of it a steep climb. There is a Refugio (tramping hut) at the lake of Respumoso. It is at 2200mtrs above sea level and we wanted to use it as a staging ground for the next days push up and over one of the highest passes we would face on the trip (Cuello Tebarral 2800mtrs). We arrived at just after midday at the refugio and were pleased to find that they had accommodation, and a bar and meals! 2 cold beers were rapidly despatched and we made ourselves the usual lunch while looking up at the incredibly high peaks that now completely surrounded us.

the climb to Respumoso

Wednesday 12th Candanchu to Sallent de Gállego 2 2 kms

A very long climb up a steep sided valley with an incredibly high almost vertical face to get over at the end of the valley. Chris B and J wemt ahead but i had tn take a 10 minute breather before plodding up to the top of the 2200 mtr pass. We saw chamois and marmots. At the top was a large alpine meadow with another glacial lake Ibon d'Anayet. A quick lunch of our usual Pyrenean cheese, chorizo, sardines, bread and fruit. It has to be said here that spanish food is excellent however the bread is definitly lacking. For this walk we need good quality grain bread and while it does exist it is almost impossible to find in the small mountain villages. A long 10 km downhill to the village of Sallent now tho half way down we ran into a newly developed ski field which had obliterated the track. We ended up walking down beside 4kms of highway (really hard on the feet) before getting into the village. We had decided to have a rest day on thursday and i definitly needed it. We had some really big stuff coming up.

the mountains we have to climb

a hard day

Tuesday 11th Guarrinza to Candanchu 22 kms

The day started early with the local cows trying to eat our gear and licking Bennets pack which wound him up somewhat. A beautiful morning we had a fast walk along a river canyon before starting up a climb to a pass which led thru to the valley of Aguas Tuertas, a FLAT walk! Amazing. Not for long tho. A climb up to 1915 mtrs then down to our first glacial lake, Ibon d'Estanés. Crystal clear water and warm sunshine, we took our boots and shirts off and ate lunch while feet soaked in chill mountain water. We pushed on dropping thru beech forest. The track then headed into a blind canyon with the most massive wall of rock at the end. We traversed along a very narrow (a times 20 cm wide) track above an almost vertical drop of moraine. With a 20kg pack ones mind became extremely focused on the loose gravel track. Then a grind uphill and we arrived at the ski resort town of Candanchu. Being the end of summer it was a ghost town. We finally found a little old bar and drank 3 cold beers each. We we buggered and there appeared to be nowhere to stay. The woman that owned the bar said we would have to camp and sold us food at extortionate rates. We were at 1500 metres above sea level and a thick evening mist had rolled in. A 2 kilometre walk into the mountains to flnd somewhere to camp did not appeal. At the last minute as we were preparing to leave the bar an english tourist walked in and told us about a hostel 500 metres up the road right on the french border. Our elderly bar owner claimed to know nothing but had made a nice profit from provisioning us for camping. Hmmm... With rain coming we headed for the hostel carrying a few kilos of excess food.