Saturday 15th Respumoso to Balneario de Panticosa 16 kms

The morning was cold. We were already up at 2100 mtrs above sea level and had a 700 metre climb to get to the high pass of Cuello Tebarral. It was to be the highest point so far n the walk. We set off surrounded by high peaks and walked through a hangin valley filled with small alpine streams. As we climbed the going got steeper and soon we were scrambling our way up a rocky scree slope. It just got steeper and steeper and with a mountain in front of us it was difficult to see exactly where the track was taking us. Suddenly the track hooked sharply to the right and we could see a very narrow pass (3 metres wide) in the immense rock wall in front of us. As we approached it, the way became totally vertical and so it was a hand over hand climb up a solid rock face, no easy feat with a 20 kilo pack on the back. I didnt look backwards because I didnt want to see where I would end up if I fell. Once at the top it was a relief to say the least. There was already a few Spanish climbers there and we all enjoyed the spectacular view of Mt Balaitus (3150 mtrs) and a ring of peaks to our left called the Infiernos in Spanish ( the Hell peaks, I can see why they got their name). After that it was a long down hill walk of some 12 kilometres stopping to have lunch beside some beautiful glacial lakes in the sunshine.
We arrived about 6pm at Balneario de Panticosa, which is a very expensive spa resort first made fashionable by the Spanish King Alfonso the 13th in the late 19th century. The whole town was a construction site with new hotels and apartments being built but fortunately there was a hostal for trampers and climbers call Casa de Piedra, complete with bar and restaurant. We immediately ordered 3 large, cold beers (which was beginning to become a bit of a custom) and booked in for the night. We had dinner with 3 spanish mountaineers who were also staying at the hostal and had a great evening. As usual with these mountain refuges or hostals, we are all crammed together in bunkrooms with a variety of nocturnal nasal sounds being emitted by various people. Fortunately for me I am usually so exhausted that I collapse unconscious immediately. Others are not so lucky and I note here that sometimes, while asleep, I get requests from others in my vicinity to cover my face up with a pillow. I dont know why, they seem to have some problem with my breathing.